Hospital de Orbigo, Astorga, and El Gonso

The past few days have been quite enjoyable. We took a bus out of León, we just don't enjoy walking through hot, busy, loud urban areas, and then walked the last 7 km into Hospital de Orbigo. Just outside the town we stopped at a nice cafe with a garden in back for a cool drink and snack before heading to the hostal. To our surprise Ali and Susan came walking in! We didn't think we'd see them again for some time. They had taxied the last few kilometers and Nathan, who had kept walking, arrived shortly after. They decided to get a room at the hostal we were staying in so we got a bonus night with them.

 Hospital de Orbigo is a delightful small town. You enter the main town by crossing over a long stone medieval bridge that appeared to be an extension of an older Roman bridge. To one side is a field that was used long ago for jousting. It's a beautiful piece of work. Nathan and I commented several times about how bridges in the U.S. are crumbling and in need of repair. The Romans built them to last. Once and done, hundreds of years later people still cross them. Maybe we could learn a thing or two.

 The walk from Hospital de Orbigo to Astorga was particularly nice. We've left the area known as the meseta, which bears a striking resemblance to Eastern Washington and the Palouse, and are coming into an area with more hills and trees. Our walk included gentle climbs and descents, made all the easier by our increased fitness, cooler days, and lighter packs. About halfway through the longest stretch between towns we happened upon a place where a couple have set up an area for pilgrims to rest. As we approached the man said "America? You are welcome. This is all free for pilgrims. Be happy, be well". There was water, juice, tea, chocolate,  bananas, plums, watermelon, apples, oranges, rice cakes, boiled eggs, and cereal. All free. We stopped, had some refreshments and enjoyed being alive. It was quite nice.

As we left he wished us a "good life" and we walk away feeling lighter and with a bounce in our step. The Camino provides. The last 6 km into Astorga was flat and tree-lined on a plateau. 

As you approach Astorga you are rewarded with a breathtaking view of the city. A gentle descent leads to the outskirts of the city where the nicest fountain we've seen on the Camino is located. The walk into the city was not very fun, hot and up, up, up. The hostal was a most welcome sight.

 

Today we walked out of Astorga, only wanting to go about 13 km, to a very small town called El Ganso. It's nearly a ghost town where most of the buildings are missing their roofs, but the stone walls all remain. About the only places occupied are "The Cowboy Bar", an albergue, and a grocery store that rents 3 beautiful apartments to pilgrims (this is where we are staying). We arrived earlier than we thought we would, realizing that we can walk further. We had our bag sent here, so here we stay. Not much of a sacrifice as it's very nice. So, this afternoon I am catching up on my blog and we are plotting out the next few days to get us to Sarria by the 16th. In order to get a Compostela you must walk the entire distance from Sarria to Santiago de Compostela. No busses or cabs. We are in no hurry to finish our adventure but we are looking forward to being in Santiago with Nathan and many of the people we've met along the way. Buen Camino.