A day with a reasonable walk. We started early, around 6 am so as to beat the heat of the day, or at least as much of it as we could. Mother Nature cooperated and kept the temperature in the 80's. It helped.
Early in the day we made it to Cruz de Perdon, an iconic milestone on the Camino. It was windy and a bit cold (!), especially with moist clothes from the climb. As we reached the top a woman was just setting up her snack wagon. A cup of coffee and some mixed nuts and the blood began to flow again. The downhill from the top was steep with millions of loose rocks. Footing was tenuous at best, but not as bad as the descent into Roncesvalles. We actually enjoyed it. There were several small villages that we passed through, each one with its own charm. We enjoyed a nice rest and late breakfast in Uterga where I, of course, had some coffee and a tortilla (yum).
I also had some of the best fresh-squeezed orange juice (jugó del naranja) that I've ever had. I think the Spanish must take great pride in their food because all that I've had has been excellent. The temperature, while milder, still packed a punch. As we walked into a village we encountered a girl selling lemonade for "donativos", it was cold and just what was needed. As we continued into the village the church bells began to ring and fireworks exploded in the air. Just as I was beginning to think that they were very glad to see us arrive, the true meaning of the commotion revealed itself.
Today is the feast day for John the Baptist and the local church was throwing a party. Half the village came out. There was a band, people caring a statue, the works. Unlike anything I've seen in the U. S.
The day ended as they do now: a hot walk into town, check into the hostel, a quick shower, meal, and conversation with pilgrims from around the world. Lori and I had a nice visit with Stone from Denmark. Great to hear the perspectives of people in other cultures.
After passing through one village and into the next we came across an albergue/bar and decided to stop. Lori had her cafe con leche and I had a cup of tea. Normally I would have had coffee, as those of you who know me know I need my coffee. Drip coffee is not served in most places here, the closest thing is cafe Americano. OK, this may sound a bit ungrateful, but the cafe Americano served in most places here is horrible. Not at all what I want. The black tea did its thing and I started to feel better.
While walking Lori and I hatched a plan to buy a large duffle bag in Burgos. We need one to use when checking my pack on our return flight anyway. We will fill it with stuff we don't need while walking and have it sent ahead using Jacotrans, or some other bag carrying service. They will transport it to wherever we ask them to and we won't have to carry it! 
Burgos is a large city and we came during some festival of some kind. Lots of people. Lori and I had a nice dinner and dessert. Looking forward to seeing Nathan again tomorrow. 
The walk today was fairly easy, except that I wasn't (and aren't) feeling great. I think a combination of heat, slight dehydration, and a terrible, greasy breakfast did me in. I hope I'm feeling much better tomorrow.
We passed into the province(?) of Castilla y León, within which is more than 50% of our journey. We are planning to be in Burgos by the 1st and hopefully meet up with Nathan and the Aussies for a day of rest. It's important to know your limits and mine are becoming quite apparent. A day to relax and explore Burgos sounds fantastic.
We walked through some spectacular areas including this small medieval village, Cirauqui. Some of the villages are very old, like this one, others more modern. We stopped for the night in the small village of Lorca. 
I am falling in love with Spain. Most of the people are friendly and the countryside is beautiful. The food. Honestly, it often reminds me of eastern Washington. Even saw some wheat fields today. I continue to try and use what Spanish I've learned and to learn more. 
Our legs are feeling a bit wobbly and sore and our knees are stressed from all the downhill (I wish the downhills were snow covered and I had my skis). Fortunately there is no real pain and I have only one small blister. Let's hope that continues. The weather has turned HOT. It's beautiful but relentless. 
We walked mostly through steeply rolling hills and woods, with a quaint Spanish village thrown in here and there. Up down up down, I really don't know which is worse. 
After about 6 hours of slow walking, with about 4 to go in the peak heat of the day, we stopped at a bar for lunch and a cervesa. It didn't take long for us to ask the (very nice and helpful) owner to call a taxi for us.
It was pleasant driving up and down and up and down the last 10 km into Zubiri. Nathan had already booked us into a very nice Albergue where the 3 of us are sharing a room with 4 bunks. The27€ includes dinner, and the aromas emanating from the kitchen are amazing. Buen Camino!
The trail, which is rockey and muddy, drops about 400m in 4km. Unlike anything I've done before. Treacherously beautiful.
Nobody could keep up with Nathan and he soon left us in the dust. He is, after all, an Ironman. I pretty much ate Lori's dust as well. Today I was the Slowest Man on the Camino. Fat man walking. I calculate that I gained about 760,000 joules of gravitational energy getting here, considering the 620m of elevation gain and the mass of me and my pack. Since it took me about 4 hours and 15 minutes to get here, that means my power output was about 50 watts. Sadly, all of that would be wiped out by a McDonald's cheese burger. 
We start our walk tomorrow morning. The plan is for an "easy" day, walking to the refuge at Orrison, about 12 km but gaining about 1200m in altitude. It is an idyllic setting and we are very much looking forward to it. Hopefully, the rain and clouds dissipate so we can enjoy the view. I'll post more from there.
