Not done

Apparently the journey isn't over.  Since returning I have felt a strong desire to return.  I don't know if this impulse is rooted in wanting to walk the sections we skipped, a continuing challenge, or just an escape to a carefree and peaceful place.  For me personally, preparing to return will provide me with motivation to continue with my health and fitness goals.  I have always needed something tangible to work towards.  Unfortunately Lori can not take enough time off to walk the Camino again, but we are hopeful that she may be able to walk at least part of it with me.

So for now, my plan is to return in June 2018.  The Camino is still a mystery and I am still a pilgrim.

Last day

Today is our last day in Santiago. This morning we walked to the cathedral to see where the remains of Santiago, Saint James, are said to be interred, and to explore the cathedral.

 Afterwards I chilled while Lori shopped. So much shopping to do! Last night we had a great dinner and said more goodbyes. We leave for the airport at 3:30 am. So looking forward to being home.

 

Santiago, Santiago

The past few days have been filled with food, wine, ice cream, friends, and festival.

 After an evening of food, drinks, and fun, we said goodbye to several fellow pilgrims we've gotten to know on the Camino, including Ali and Susan from Australia. It was a difficult moment. You come to know and love these people and then your paths diverge, probably forever.  Especially with our two Aussie gals (Lori refers to them as her Camino children) it is a sad parting. Perhaps one day our path will cross again. 

This is the Camino, and life, right?

 Yesterday we took a tour bus to Finesterra and Muxia. In days of old, Finesterra was thought to be the end of the world, as far west as there was. It is a beautiful place and, as always, the sea calls. This time it calls us home. I am ready for the New World.

We ran into JoElle again. She spent a couple of days in Finesterra and was heading back to Santiago. We rejoined for dinner and had Italian food. It was so good. Good because, well it was good, and good because it was different. The food on the Camino has been great but the palette has been somewhat narrow. Something new was most welcome.

Tonight is Nathan's and JoElle's last night in Santiago, so we will have one last meal here together. Hopefully, we may find a few other pilgrims to join us. Then Lori and I have one last day here together before heading home to our lovely daughters. Despite the wonderful times I've had in Spain, I miss them so much.

 

 

Santiago de Compostela

Today we ended our pilgrimage, walking into Praza do Obradorio, the plaza in front of the Cathedral de Santiago de Compostela. 
 It was an emotional moment, filled with joy, happiness, pride, and relief. Thirty six days working our way across Spain has come to an end. Nathan met us just before we got to the Cathedral, hiding along the way and sneaking up behind us as we walked. It was great to see him again and to be able to share these final moments with him. 

 Marisa, a pilgrim we met in Hospital de Orbigo, just happened to be in the square as we entered. It was great.

We wanted to arrive here today since tomorrow is the feast day for Saint James, whose remains are said to be interned in the Cathedral, and the reason many make the pilgrimage. As it turns out it is the biggest day of the year in Santiago. As I write this we are sitting in the square, which is filled to capacity with locals and pilgrims. In about an hour and a half there will be fireworks and if our experience proves true the town will party until dawn. This time we join in. Tomorrow we will attend the pilgrims mass and hopefully see the Botafumeiro swing. In the next day or so we plan to go to Finesterra, by bus, to the end of the world. So stay tuned, it's not the end of this blog.

 

O' Pedrouza and Lavacolla

So tonight is our last night on the Camino. A short 10 km walk tomorrow brings us to the Cathedral at Santiago de Compostela. The past 35 days and nights have simply been amazing. 

 Yesterday's walk was fairly uneventful. Twenty kilometers, up and down, but not too extreme. We even got a little rain which kept things cool. The church in O 'Pedrouzo had a pilgrim mass we attended. Like so many in Spain, the church is very ornate and charming. The place was standing room only, and while we didn't understand much it was very nice.

 Today's walk to Lavacolla was very short, only about 10 km. This will leave us a leisurely 10 km tomorrow to Santiago.  We will miss the journey but are looking forward to reconnecting with Nathan and our Camino friends. Tonight we drank and dined with some fellow pilgrims, one, James, we've met before, the rest we met today. That's how it is on the Camino. Hundreds of people having a common experience in fellowship. If you've ever wanted to do something truly special you should try this. It's indescribable.

 

Melide and Arzua?

The past two days have been much cooler, which have made the climbs more tolerable. Last night we stayed in Melide. Nothing especially significant about Melide except it is where we were told to get Pulpo, or octopus. 
 We went to the restaurant which was recommended to give it a try. Lori even took a bite, but I'm sure it will be her last (see an earlier post on my Facebook page). I liked it well enough, but not enough to have again. 

The walk from Melide was OK, not too hot and not too steep. As we got closer to the end I put our hotel into Google Maps to make sure we didn't pass it. Much to my surprise it shows it miles away. As it turns out, when they say "on the Camino" in their Booking.com description, they mean "5 miles off the Camino".  Hmm. A call confirmed this, but that they would pick us up and bring us back in the morning. No problem. The place was nice enough but I didn't get to enjoy it much as I felt sick for most of the afternoon and evening. This morning, as I finish writing this, we have been waiting 25 minutes past the time we would be taken back, with no signs of the owner. Hmm. Hope the rest of the day goes better...

 

Palas de Rei

This is a fun town! As I write this, at 10:15 pm, there is a large group of Spaniards sitting in the streets drinking and singing loudly. It sounds like they are having so much fun!

Today's walk was fun too, once we climbed the hill out of Gonzar. The temperature was a bit more tolerable and with a breeze walking was much more comfortable. The path paralleled a road for most of the day, so the slopes up and down were gentler. All the more appreciated after the tough night we had last night. Our room was hot, hot, hot! So tough to sleep. And the flies were nearly unbearable. In fact, it was so hot the flies were dropping dead. Really! Between the heat, flies, and Galician incense, I was glad to leave Gonzar. Too bad really, under different circumstances I'm sure it is nice.

During our walk we came upon a small pilgrim ministry run by a Spanish Christian campus ministry. They accept volunteers from around the world who serve pilgrims fruit, coffee, and lemonade for a week at a time. We stopped for a pilgrims stamp and when they asked us where we were from one of them said that she knew someone from Washington. Soon Culzean came walking out to greet us. Turns out she is from Spokane and is volunteering after walking the Camino herself. It was nice to chat with her for a few minutes. I think it was comforting for all of us to have some connection to home while so far away.

We connected with several pilgrims here in Palas de Rei that we've met along the way; Charles, Julie, Jack, Lance, and Ali and Susie, our Aussie girls. We all had dinner together and caught up. We probably won't see them again until Santiago since they walk faster than we do. The people you meet make your Camino. Ours is great.