The walk out of SJPP is always one for the books. Over the course of walking approximately 5 miles, we gained about 2100 feet. Some parts of the trail are extremely challenging.
We knew this in advance so we weren't surprised, but that doesn't make it any less challenging. It rained off and on all morning and this was actually a blessing. The temperature was cool and the sun was hidden by clouds. Perfect hiking weather. The last hour or so of the climb the sun did come out and things got a lot warmer. It was the first time I can remember feeling like the weather got worse when the sun came out! We made it in about 4 hours and 45 minutes. As I've said before, I am Señor Tortuga!
The refuge at Orrison is a wonderful place and makes the climb well worth it. The chance to sit and talk with pilgrims from around the world, and the communal meal, are not to be missed. If you ever make this walk make sure you stay here the first night. You will need to make reservations months in advance.
The next day we headed out for Roncesvalles, an old monastery that has been converted into a pilgrim hostel. This is another climbing day, longer but not as steep. Still you gain significant elevation over a 10 mile hike. It is spectacularly beautiful.
About halfway up (from Orrison, many people complete the trip starting in SJPP) there is a food truck selling cold drinks, fruit and other snacks. It's a great place for a rest stop. It's a good thing too because there is still a long way to go with some challenging terrain.
It just seems to go on and on and on until you finally reach the top. Then you start the descent down to Roncesvalles. While you might think that going down is better than climbing, as many of you know, the actual experience is different. There are two ways down from the top of this climb. One follows a trail directly down through the woods. It is beautiful but difficult, even dangerous. Lots of rocks, tree roots, and mud. It is VERY steep. Lori and I went this way in 2016 (didn't know any better) but never again. The other way follows a winding road with lots of switchbacks. It is longer, but safer. This is the way we followed.
This is where the wheels fell off of my bus. I can't explain why what happened happened, but I can tell you that my legs just quit working. I don't mean to say that I actually went lame, but I could hardly walk nor control what walking I could do. I could barely stand, and if I sat down to rest, I couldn't get back up without a lot of help. Lori said that when I walked it looked like I was a drunken sailor. So many times I nearly fell over, saved only by using my hiking poles. It was horrible.
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| resting to regain leg strength |
It was especially bad when the path was not even. Eventually the poles did not provide enough support or security and Lori had to walk next to me to hold me up. It was horrible. As I attempted to plod down the hill it just got worse. I tried sitting/laying on a road cut next to the path to gain some strength, and this helped, but only a little and for a short time. As I lay on the hill it started raining and I got cold. I would have called 112, the emergency number, but I didn't know where to tell them I was. Some pilgrims passed by, one of them asked if I had any electrolytes and, duh, I did. We mixed up a bottle and I chugged it down. After ten minutes I felt somewhat better and attempted to continue down. It didn't help for too long, but we made some progress. Eventually my legs gave out again and I had to sit, another road cut. When I tried to get up again it was damn near impossible. Even with both poles and Lori pulling or pushing I just had zero strength in my legs. Finally I took my pack off and rolled onto my stomach to try and get on a knee, then my feet. It did work, although it wasn't pretty, and as an added "bonus" my knee ended up in the middle of a cow pie. At least it was an old, dry one. After another half-mile three women pilgrims came upon us. They asked how they could help, insisting. They ended up carrying my pack, which helped a little. After a short bit they came to a road where they flagged down a passing car. They explained my predicament to the driver and asked if they would give Lori and me a ride into Roncesvalles, which was still about a mile away. The Spanish couple with the car agreed and soon the worst of my nightmare was over. I tried to give them some cash, but they wouldn't take it. The Camino provides.
So today we took a taxi to our accommodation in Zubiri. I'm not one who is likely to cry, but as we rode here we could see pilgrims walking along the way. I wanted to cry. My crest has fallen and it has broken my heart.
I do not know what comes next. This ailment is a mystery to me and I don't know how to address it. We are bussing to Pamplona tomorrow where we will spend 3 nights in a hotel. There we can rest and evaluate our options. I very much want to continue my Camino, as does Lori, and if I improve significantly we will. I have many concerns though. I don't feel that I can place myself (or Lori) in a situation similar to where I was yesterday. Unable to continue and no way to call a taxi or summon other help. Lori did quadruple duty getting me off the mountain, but she shouldn't have to. I have to consider her. Our Camino could become a vacation in Spain (not a bad thing) with an early return. I hope not, but I think that in the end it needs to be a wise decision rather than a brave one.
Right now I can walk. Sitting and standing is difficult. I am hoping that things improve enough to continue. Pilgrims plan and God laughs.
Patrick
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| The bridge into Zubiri. |
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